Although much sending last weekend was done by the one they call Darth Morgan, today's post is self indulgent. I, the lackey, Mr piss weak, or the mouth from the south, completed the Alpha Male project. It's hard to believe that a weakling like myself can do these feats, with titans such as Mr v6, Darth Morgan, and The fury floating around Auckland.
Being the complete pussy i am i top roped the upper section to learn the moves, and send it after. I have changed the name from "ALPHA MALE" to "The Professional". I can't really comment on the grade? it felt easy when i did it? but i know that a lot of people have found it hard, and i also took several days to do it.. I propose that it is either hard v9 or possibly soft v10. But in saying this i could be totally off and it could just be v8. I have only climbed 4-5 proper v10 boulders, but i have done many v9s and a few soft ass pussy v10s which were not really v10. It took longer than most of the v10s i have done but felt easier on the send.
Thus brings an end to the project formally known as ALPHA MALE, now dubbed The Professional v9/10 for now. someone proooooooove me wrong please.
peace out!
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Sunday, March 7, 2010
International Man of mystery...
Another weekend of sending for the Auckland region.
The biggest news for the weekend was the return to climbing of international man of mystery, aka the greatest climber in the world, aka built to last is only 27, S!! Mooney!!! As most of us know, the Smoon has been back in town for a few weeks, however what you might not know is he has been secrete training for the last 2 weeks.
Information surfaced recently that the Smoon had not climb in several month's while in Europe, and because of this he has spent the last 2 weeks undertaking intense physical and mental training. The so called training consisted of eating sausages and drinking cheap kiwi beer at Piha, and folks it has all payed off.
The Smoon balled down to Froggatt in his rented car and quickly crushed the Test piece Mad dog (30). After putting the draws on as a warm up, Smoon quickly sent he route second go, NICE!! After this display of power, just for shits and giggles, the Smoon repeated Mad Dog and ran some laps on louder, double major drop out, and several other 26+ classics of Froggatt. All of the Froggatt sending was done in the 30 degree heat! Smoon also proclaimed that Auckland climbers are all bitches, and that Froggatt is not even Sharp... "harden the fuck up!"
Sunday brought a new wave of pain to the central North Island when the Fury turned up with his Lackey to Mangokewa ( if anyone hasn't got it yet, i am the lackey!). The goal of the day was the second ascent of Icarus (28), put up by Voss the Soss. With typical devotion the lackey put the draws up and figured out the moves. The Fury made the decision not to go for the flash, as he deemed the route not Worthy of such effort, and went bolt to bolt to warm his fingers up. Although the day started stress free for our champion ( the Fury), the Fury began to feel the pressure when he noticed the International man of mystery turn up to challenge him for the second ascent of Icarus. The Fury laid down a epic effort, breezing through the start crux section on his third try, and soon found himself grabbing the final hold with a mighty scream. Sadly the Fury's lackey had not clean the final hold well enough and the Fury fell before he could clip the chains. Sadly for the Fury, Mr Smoon walked the route to take the second ascent.
To add insult to injury the lackey snaked the 3rd ascent, on his 4Th go from the Fury, and was later punished for this outrage.
After lunch the Lackey began to work on yet another hard route, which the Fury and the Smoon deemed to piss to bother with, Sencha (29). After much effort a viable sequence was found and attempts we made to link the route. Sadly a large dyno shut down the Lackey on link but he vowed to return soon.
Due in part to the transgressions of his lackey earlier in the day, and the smoon snaking the second ascent of Icarus, the Fury was unhappy and not feeling in the groove. However, the Fury decided to attempt to send a sweet little climb called Bonsai (25/26). The lackey did the route putting the draws on, this time brushing all the holds to a acceptable standard. Sadly the altered mental state of the Fury meant his game was not TIGHT, and he failed several times to send the route. Again the lackey was punished for making his master look the fool in front of the international man of mystery, and the Fury was left feeling unsatisfied.
To finish off the weekend of sending, the international man of mystery decided to basically do everything at Mangokewa. sarting with a flash of a Ryan VH route weighting in at 28... The smoon quickly moved onto Flashing Master of my own world ( 28/29), Fly (28) and a bunch of other shit... smoon again proclaimed that Aucklander's need to "harden the fuck up!" I couldn't agree more!
lets go do it people...
As a side note, I heard through the grape vine that Little Tom went to Froggatt this weekend. We can only guess what holds that little destroyer crushed into submission... hopefully something hard.. good shit Tom for getting out there!
Peace people, go send a route!
The biggest news for the weekend was the return to climbing of international man of mystery, aka the greatest climber in the world, aka built to last is only 27, S!! Mooney!!! As most of us know, the Smoon has been back in town for a few weeks, however what you might not know is he has been secrete training for the last 2 weeks.
Information surfaced recently that the Smoon had not climb in several month's while in Europe, and because of this he has spent the last 2 weeks undertaking intense physical and mental training. The so called training consisted of eating sausages and drinking cheap kiwi beer at Piha, and folks it has all payed off.
The Smoon balled down to Froggatt in his rented car and quickly crushed the Test piece Mad dog (30). After putting the draws on as a warm up, Smoon quickly sent he route second go, NICE!! After this display of power, just for shits and giggles, the Smoon repeated Mad Dog and ran some laps on louder, double major drop out, and several other 26+ classics of Froggatt. All of the Froggatt sending was done in the 30 degree heat! Smoon also proclaimed that Auckland climbers are all bitches, and that Froggatt is not even Sharp... "harden the fuck up!"
Sunday brought a new wave of pain to the central North Island when the Fury turned up with his Lackey to Mangokewa ( if anyone hasn't got it yet, i am the lackey!). The goal of the day was the second ascent of Icarus (28), put up by Voss the Soss. With typical devotion the lackey put the draws up and figured out the moves. The Fury made the decision not to go for the flash, as he deemed the route not Worthy of such effort, and went bolt to bolt to warm his fingers up. Although the day started stress free for our champion ( the Fury), the Fury began to feel the pressure when he noticed the International man of mystery turn up to challenge him for the second ascent of Icarus. The Fury laid down a epic effort, breezing through the start crux section on his third try, and soon found himself grabbing the final hold with a mighty scream. Sadly the Fury's lackey had not clean the final hold well enough and the Fury fell before he could clip the chains. Sadly for the Fury, Mr Smoon walked the route to take the second ascent.
To add insult to injury the lackey snaked the 3rd ascent, on his 4Th go from the Fury, and was later punished for this outrage.
After lunch the Lackey began to work on yet another hard route, which the Fury and the Smoon deemed to piss to bother with, Sencha (29). After much effort a viable sequence was found and attempts we made to link the route. Sadly a large dyno shut down the Lackey on link but he vowed to return soon.
Due in part to the transgressions of his lackey earlier in the day, and the smoon snaking the second ascent of Icarus, the Fury was unhappy and not feeling in the groove. However, the Fury decided to attempt to send a sweet little climb called Bonsai (25/26). The lackey did the route putting the draws on, this time brushing all the holds to a acceptable standard. Sadly the altered mental state of the Fury meant his game was not TIGHT, and he failed several times to send the route. Again the lackey was punished for making his master look the fool in front of the international man of mystery, and the Fury was left feeling unsatisfied.
To finish off the weekend of sending, the international man of mystery decided to basically do everything at Mangokewa. sarting with a flash of a Ryan VH route weighting in at 28... The smoon quickly moved onto Flashing Master of my own world ( 28/29), Fly (28) and a bunch of other shit... smoon again proclaimed that Aucklander's need to "harden the fuck up!" I couldn't agree more!
lets go do it people...
As a side note, I heard through the grape vine that Little Tom went to Froggatt this weekend. We can only guess what holds that little destroyer crushed into submission... hopefully something hard.. good shit Tom for getting out there!
Peace people, go send a route!
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