Can we only grade on how we find things or is it a consensus? Ive found myself asking this questions more and more often recently. As everyone knows, i am a complete piss weak loud mouth... and because of this fact i tend to steer away from down grading unless i feel really sure about it.
Really sure about it...? that is the question isn't it! I have, over the last few weeks, managed to climb a few routes that in my previous days I would have auto down graded; also I have tried one that i would auto up grade!
This previous weekend I went out to the rock with none other than Mr V6 and watched him destroy the route I would have auto up-graded ( Master of my own world, 28). I was amazed at the ease he crushed every hold, every move... while my attempts left me feeling, like i so often do, weak as piss.
Watching this demonstration of might by Mr V6 on master of my own world, I advised Mr V6 to attempt another route that i felt to be quite soft ( FLY 28) only to watch this Titan get destroyed by almost every move. WTF!
My point is maybe instead of constantly down grading, or even up grading ( not that this is problem in NZ) we should realise that routes fit us better or worse and the graded can still be the same; or GOD forbid harder that what we find them.
I think grading should not be mistaken with perception of effort... due to our own strengths we can actually find routes that are hard, easy! It's worth pondering... maybe there is a reason why every New-Zealand climber that goes over sea's boulders or climbs 2-3 grades harder than they do back home! Instead of Kiwi's saying the rest of the world is wrong about grading and are all pussy's, could it be us that are the fucking chump dumb fucks that sandbag ourselves to the point we we actually believe that V10 is hard... just my thoughts!
Also Mr Piss weak managed to second go a beautiful Voss the soss route called Sirens ( 26) great route for a 25 climber to break into 26 for sure... so weaklings in Auckland tear it up!
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Piss Weak Strikes Again
New found Quarry legend Cliff " it's V6 " Lee took an old dog out last night for an evening of pain.
As I attempted to warm up on the evil, slime infested crimps of the quarry, Mr V6 walked up several hard problems making me look like the weakling I am. After our warm up was complete we decided on a project for the evening. The Project turned out to be the right handed start to McNugget, due in part to EPIC FAILS by Mr V6 and myself on a evil Zane B v5/6.
Although Mr V6 seemed to have the edge in every aspect of climbing this evening ( strength, will power, and technique) I had one thing on my side... i am taller than shrimpy Mr V6. As it happened my height, along with tricky new beta, found me beginning to link the 3 move problem, considered to be in the range of V10. Sadly as the crux move came closer and closer, we lost light and had to pack it in; A fun evening non the less.
However dear readers all is not lost... due to the success of last night, I gathered up my gear and headed to the quarry early this morning for a secret session. I felt the need to have another dig at the McNugget right... (EPIC FAIL!!!) Sadly I realised that i was to tired to even pull on. In light of this fail I turned my attention to a Quarry classic ( METH 1, V9) and as it happens, i had success! After only 4 attempts at the crux (A largest move to a fat pinch off a very Sharp crimp) I found myself at the finish jug...
It is amazing that a Piss weak climber such as myself can manage to pull these things out of the bag... come on team Auckland come and do the same!
As I attempted to warm up on the evil, slime infested crimps of the quarry, Mr V6 walked up several hard problems making me look like the weakling I am. After our warm up was complete we decided on a project for the evening. The Project turned out to be the right handed start to McNugget, due in part to EPIC FAILS by Mr V6 and myself on a evil Zane B v5/6.
Although Mr V6 seemed to have the edge in every aspect of climbing this evening ( strength, will power, and technique) I had one thing on my side... i am taller than shrimpy Mr V6. As it happened my height, along with tricky new beta, found me beginning to link the 3 move problem, considered to be in the range of V10. Sadly as the crux move came closer and closer, we lost light and had to pack it in; A fun evening non the less.
However dear readers all is not lost... due to the success of last night, I gathered up my gear and headed to the quarry early this morning for a secret session. I felt the need to have another dig at the McNugget right... (EPIC FAIL!!!) Sadly I realised that i was to tired to even pull on. In light of this fail I turned my attention to a Quarry classic ( METH 1, V9) and as it happens, i had success! After only 4 attempts at the crux (A largest move to a fat pinch off a very Sharp crimp) I found myself at the finish jug...
It is amazing that a Piss weak climber such as myself can manage to pull these things out of the bag... come on team Auckland come and do the same!
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
The Fury is Back...
Holding up the Auckland end, the Fury had a strong weekend in the central North Island. After a early start of 12pm from A-town the Fury and his Lackey (aka JFM) arrived at Mangokewa at 4pm... Once roped in, the Fury took only 40min to destroy FLY (28) on his second go; I also managed to slime my way up the wall after the fury on my second shot.
Making short work of FLY, the Fury and Lackey moved on to the next route, Ahl-i-Najasa (28), put up by Ryan VH. The Fury was in need of rest thus the Lackey headed up for an on-site at the route; Epic fail!!!! Once the draws were on the Fury had a red point and fell near the top, and quickly decided to move to the pub.
After a boozy night, the Fury started the day early with coffee, and the news paper, while Lackey cleaned up the tent, and got all the gear together. 9am rolled around and the Lackey was back putting draws on a 20 as a warm up for the Fury. Disregarding the Fury's wishes the Lackey had a burn on Ahl-i-Najasa and pulled a 3rd shot send out of his arse; 40min later the Fury brought the fucking noise and dispatched 3rd go also.
After bringing the noise so hard, the Fury decided it was time to back off the gas and go and whip out some easier routes. The Lackey did as he was told and epic failed on an on-site of Revenge of the killer bikini vampire girls (26), put up by Steven King . Disgusted with the Lackey, the Fury fucked that shit up with a flash of the route; the Lackey wormed in a second shot for good measure. Next, the Fury took pity on the Lackey and threw some draws on a Kukicha (26), put up by soss master Ivan. V. As normal the Lackey struggled his was to a 3rd shot send of the route followed by 4th go send by the Fury.
By this point, 3pm, the Fury had decided that he needed no more training, and the rest of the routes in the area were to piss for him, the Lackey disagreed... The Lackey made a final pathetic second shot send of Bonsai (25), put up by Ivan V. The send was nothing short of a disgracing screaming, whimpering attempt the whole way up the route.
What should be taken from this post, 1. be aware... the Fury is back and making it fucking rain again! 2. Mangokewa has some great short bouldery routes on fun limestone routes. 3. Finally... I don't care if you are climbing 18 or 30, Aucklanders get up, get moving, and get climbing!!!
Making short work of FLY, the Fury and Lackey moved on to the next route, Ahl-i-Najasa (28), put up by Ryan VH. The Fury was in need of rest thus the Lackey headed up for an on-site at the route; Epic fail!!!! Once the draws were on the Fury had a red point and fell near the top, and quickly decided to move to the pub.
After a boozy night, the Fury started the day early with coffee, and the news paper, while Lackey cleaned up the tent, and got all the gear together. 9am rolled around and the Lackey was back putting draws on a 20 as a warm up for the Fury. Disregarding the Fury's wishes the Lackey had a burn on Ahl-i-Najasa and pulled a 3rd shot send out of his arse; 40min later the Fury brought the fucking noise and dispatched 3rd go also.
After bringing the noise so hard, the Fury decided it was time to back off the gas and go and whip out some easier routes. The Lackey did as he was told and epic failed on an on-site of Revenge of the killer bikini vampire girls (26), put up by Steven King . Disgusted with the Lackey, the Fury fucked that shit up with a flash of the route; the Lackey wormed in a second shot for good measure. Next, the Fury took pity on the Lackey and threw some draws on a Kukicha (26), put up by soss master Ivan. V. As normal the Lackey struggled his was to a 3rd shot send of the route followed by 4th go send by the Fury.
By this point, 3pm, the Fury had decided that he needed no more training, and the rest of the routes in the area were to piss for him, the Lackey disagreed... The Lackey made a final pathetic second shot send of Bonsai (25), put up by Ivan V. The send was nothing short of a disgracing screaming, whimpering attempt the whole way up the route.
What should be taken from this post, 1. be aware... the Fury is back and making it fucking rain again! 2. Mangokewa has some great short bouldery routes on fun limestone routes. 3. Finally... I don't care if you are climbing 18 or 30, Aucklanders get up, get moving, and get climbing!!!
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Is the Return the end...
I had many expectations about returning to the city where i began as a climber; everyone of them fell very very short. I asumed due to my sucsses in 2009 in America and Canada, i would continue to keep motivated, send hard routes and boulders, and be surrounded by fun, active, outgoing climbers; as it turns out this is not the case.
I have managed to return to a scene of climbers who don't climb, and refuse to accept that 28 and v7 are not the hardest we can climb. So far all that i have found in the auckland climbing community is negitive attitudes, and empty opinions from climbers who have next to no real experience. However, some hope remains... 1. The bringer of the fury Regan M, 2. Lens master Ketzel S, and 3. the legand of the quarry himself Zane B. and even Darth Morgan... Although I respect the masterful decision of Beast kong to leave Auckland, I can't help but wish he could have stuck around to add to my very small list of life bringers.
I want anyone who reads this to understand that First and formost i love climbing, the bleeding tips, cold days, and brutal training sessions... all of it! Auckland is my climbing birth place, and when i began i remember leaders of the community pushing hard, and pushing me hard. But I find myself becoming depressed in only a matter of 5weeks due to a scene that seems to be getting slowly killed by a diesease eating away at the very soul of climbing.
What happened to the days when auckland was lead by Smooney, Luke, Phill, Andy.. where is the crazy dave getting people out of the gym and onto the rock; telling climbers 24 is only a number and anyone can achive it. Will Auckland ever get back its champions to lead it again?
I have managed to return to a scene of climbers who don't climb, and refuse to accept that 28 and v7 are not the hardest we can climb. So far all that i have found in the auckland climbing community is negitive attitudes, and empty opinions from climbers who have next to no real experience. However, some hope remains... 1. The bringer of the fury Regan M, 2. Lens master Ketzel S, and 3. the legand of the quarry himself Zane B. and even Darth Morgan... Although I respect the masterful decision of Beast kong to leave Auckland, I can't help but wish he could have stuck around to add to my very small list of life bringers.
I want anyone who reads this to understand that First and formost i love climbing, the bleeding tips, cold days, and brutal training sessions... all of it! Auckland is my climbing birth place, and when i began i remember leaders of the community pushing hard, and pushing me hard. But I find myself becoming depressed in only a matter of 5weeks due to a scene that seems to be getting slowly killed by a diesease eating away at the very soul of climbing.
What happened to the days when auckland was lead by Smooney, Luke, Phill, Andy.. where is the crazy dave getting people out of the gym and onto the rock; telling climbers 24 is only a number and anyone can achive it. Will Auckland ever get back its champions to lead it again?
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