Can we only grade on how we find things or is it a consensus? Ive found myself asking this questions more and more often recently. As everyone knows, i am a complete piss weak loud mouth... and because of this fact i tend to steer away from down grading unless i feel really sure about it.
Really sure about it...? that is the question isn't it! I have, over the last few weeks, managed to climb a few routes that in my previous days I would have auto down graded; also I have tried one that i would auto up grade!
This previous weekend I went out to the rock with none other than Mr V6 and watched him destroy the route I would have auto up-graded ( Master of my own world, 28). I was amazed at the ease he crushed every hold, every move... while my attempts left me feeling, like i so often do, weak as piss.
Watching this demonstration of might by Mr V6 on master of my own world, I advised Mr V6 to attempt another route that i felt to be quite soft ( FLY 28) only to watch this Titan get destroyed by almost every move. WTF!
My point is maybe instead of constantly down grading, or even up grading ( not that this is problem in NZ) we should realise that routes fit us better or worse and the graded can still be the same; or GOD forbid harder that what we find them.
I think grading should not be mistaken with perception of effort... due to our own strengths we can actually find routes that are hard, easy! It's worth pondering... maybe there is a reason why every New-Zealand climber that goes over sea's boulders or climbs 2-3 grades harder than they do back home! Instead of Kiwi's saying the rest of the world is wrong about grading and are all pussy's, could it be us that are the fucking chump dumb fucks that sandbag ourselves to the point we we actually believe that V10 is hard... just my thoughts!
Also Mr Piss weak managed to second go a beautiful Voss the soss route called Sirens ( 26) great route for a 25 climber to break into 26 for sure... so weaklings in Auckland tear it up!
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